fashiontent

Mary Quant at the V&A

2012-02-11T10:41:00.009-08:00

The iconic Mary Quant is speaking at the V&A on the 16th March. Wow! I went to listen to the amazing Celia Birtwell a few years ago at the V&A and it really was inspiring hearing her talk about her time in the 1970s working with and being married to Ozzie Clarke. Quant was as much part the swinging 60s as Bailey, Shrimpton, the Beatles and the Stones and it was she who developed the Mini skirt and hot pant which formed the then new and revolutionary stylish, sexy and emancipated silhouette reflecting the growing confidence of women and their role in society.
Mary Quant was born in my native Blackheath and educated at Blackheath High School for Girls. She went on to study Illustration at local Goldsmiths college. in 1963 she won the The Times international fashion award and was voted woman of the year. The Swinging 60s began.

Sophia Coppola - Marni and H&M launch Film

2012-02-08T11:21:00.002-08:00

Following the success of the uber cool Versace and Lanvin fashion promotion films, friend of Marc Jacobs, and all round talented film director Sophia Coppola has endorsed the integrity of big name brands launching democratic collections for the proletariat High Street by directing the new Marni H&M fashion film. The model looks remarkably like Coppola herself who openly admits that her inspiration came for staying in the very same location with friends. Sophia is a perfect fashion muse for the brand. Clearly the Art director wished the narcissistic connection with Coppola herself in the same way that Donatella Versace took a lead role in the Versace H&M film ( reviewed on a previous post.) These collaborations are a clever marketing strategy as it boosts H&M's cache as well as bringing awareness of the Marni brand into a new customer orbit that may decide to splash out on the real thing at some stage. The buzz created also attracts new customers into H&M that otherwise would not choose to shop there. Whilst Zara copies, H&M collaberates and respects the design ethos of the brand. It tends to work with high end brands that are suffering a slight dip and need a boost - a win win situation for all involved.

Copy Schelay McCarter

New Trend - The Celebrity Kiddle ( Couple)

2012-02-06T15:00:00.001-08:00

Stella and daughter in coordinating outfit - note the shoes

Being a Kiddle is more than the child being a fashion accessory! - it indicates closeness and nurture, maybe different when you are part of brand Beckham!

A close kiddle tendency here with Katie and Suri

mother and child a style unit matching colour again

Amber Valetta and son both in decorative trim jackets.

Claudia and daughter in matching red

Claudia and daughter in matching taupe

Liz and Damian matching colours

White trouser match here

Coordinated styling - almost like Damian is her consort

Sweet matching jackets for Gwen and son

red popular for kiddles, confident and matching

Note Gavin and son in jeans kiddle, Gwen and Gavin Koople

Gwyneth and daughter in matching dresses

A rare image of Madonna matching her offspring

The celebrity Kiddle ( a style co-ordinated Mother/Dad and child couple ) is a definite trend at the moment. In the visually literate world we live in mothers have become more confident about styling themselves as a unit with their children - It tends to be with their children under the age of 12. What it signifies I will ponder in depth later, but one thing is for sure Victoria Beckham, Liz Hurley, Gwen Stephanie, and Katie Holmes like to do it regularly with their off spring. Madonna, doe it rarely now as her daughter is older and has independent style preferences maybe . Stella McCartney, Gwyneth Paltrow and Claudia Schiffer have been known to do it once in a while and when they do it looks great.
To see more of the kiddle trend from ordinary mums check this link ...http://fashiontent4kids.tumblr.com/

The Kiddle trend could reflect the growing trend of division bluring of fashion across age groups and indicate closeness and nurture as well as creating a visually protective mechanism of camouflage as seen when the colours worn are the same, maybe saying this child is mine, is wearing 'my team' style, we are a tight unit.
It will be interesting to see how Kate Middleton dresses her Royal off spring when they arrive. My prediction is that she and William will start a family soon and there will be an announcement this year.

what do you think?

Words by Schelay McCarter

London Winter Snow Style -

2012-02-05T06:39:00.001-08:00

Really like the big tracker hat and bright fur trimmed ski jacket

Two stylish young ladies, love the fur head band and matching cream knit hat and scarf

This long coat works as part of a well coordinated outfit - like the patterned bag.

Hackett bright knit scarf, like the hat too

Twins in super Nordic style knits -

fab chunky knit scarf

Kiddle power - mix and match pattern, colour and texture - like mum's green check trousers and the girls look great in their plaids and Nordic knits

stylish Kiddle - Like all the Nordic knits here, particularly the scarf

Wow! layering up here she is warm and the long coat looks good

Stylish Kiddle - Like the layering on this stylish lady, can't see it here but a Mulberry bag is over her shoulder -

Stylish Kiddle - Chic in the London snow wearing navy and stripes - who said this was only for Summer and Sailing?

Stylish family, cool combat trousers on Dad and a sweet Dalmatian hat on daughter, like mums coat and fluffy wool scarf.

Two dogs having fun in the snow - note the red scarf!

Pattern and bold colours look so great on kids,

London Alps here we come !!

Funky pattern boots on these well coordinated young ladies

A stylish young lady, no bobble hats for her....

Red and black style looks strong

Fake fur lined Top Shop coat and Hunters wellies again look great here

Like the big military style coat and chunky scarf

Cool lads in Tracker plaid jacket, Belstaff leather Jacket and the Parker coat

Note Hunters again - Super duffle style coat with hat and matching textured scarf

Kiddle - Mother and daughter look good together in matching red

Hunters boots seen often, I like the fur detail on these and love the dogs coat.

Dogs were wrapped up warm -

Funky patterned boots and another Dalmatian spot hat..

Fur tracker hats very popular

No Ski lift !

London is a magical place at the Weekend when we are lucky enough to have snow and not have to catch trains or race off on the school run in our cars! When it happens we head out with dogs and children in tow, grabbing the nearest warm item of clothing, or so I thought....!
Judging by the multitude of stylish families and dogs I met when out a few hours ago armed with my camera and in my own white fur hat ( Russian) we Londoners know how to look good and keep warm.
Kiddle Trend
It was great to see how many mums had coordinated themselves with their kids like the 'Kooples brand' 'Kiddle' could describe it - just made up this word! - you heard it first here on fashiontent. So if you are a 'Kiddle' you dress your kid's to match your look ! or a Kiddle is a Mum/Dad and child/s coordinating couple -
The dictionary definition of Kiddle is an 'old fashioned fishing net' so perfect to describe a style union of mother and child, also the play on the word 'cuddle' is appropriate

I had better patent it now!

Photos and copy Schelay McCarter - pls credit

Marks & Spencer 'Duchess of Windsor' Collection

2012-02-03T10:06:00.000-08:00

A scan of one page from my M&S visual diary, where I kept a record of my work schedule and the teams I worked with.

Here you can see different poses being tried out, eg sitting, standing, alternative crops depending on end usage requirements.

When I was Senior Art Director/designer on Lingerie for Marks and Spencer I kept a visual diary of all the branding projects and departmental promotions I worked on. These Polaroid's were my working tool for composition, cropping, lighting and styling. Most people threw them away after a shoot but I liked to keep them. Please note the film was 6x7 Ektacrome the largest format so that the negatives could be blown up and printed to human size scale for stores in the various department areas. Selected images were also released to the Press office and used in Magazines and News Papers if required. This Spring Summer Nightwear promotion was based on the style influence of Mrs Simpson the Duchess of Windsor. The Location was High Canons in Hertfordshire UK. I had been pushing to shoot Nightwear outside for a while, the 'inside outside' or lingerie as outerwear trend growing in importance at that time. Marks & Spencer was leading this trend. Using locations with balconies and verandas were a good compromise and effective aspirational lifestyle leisure pointers. Believe it or not it was a red letter day gaining back up to shoot Nighwear on a lawn! The Senior buyers liked this shoot so much it paved the way for a trip to South Carolina and the use of the large Colonial Cotton Plantation houses with their wonderful verandas. The subsequent shoot in Charlston and Beaufort South Carolina was for 'all stores' across all fashion departments, Ladieswear, Menswear and Childrenswear.

Copyright - Schelay McCarter

PLASTIK - Art & Fashion

2012-01-29T08:16:00.000-08:00

PLASTIK on news Stands now - Congratulations Beyond Production

Image courtesy of Vogue

You may well ask why I have posted this image of some of the McCartney clan and friends applauding? Creative Director of PLASTIK magazine Eli Rezkallah has astutely achieved the ultimate aim of all good Creative Director's and that is creating a fashion story that makes the clothes look fabulous as well as being arresting and provoking debate. To get noticed is essential, fashion if used cleverly can impart issues in a non threatening way.
I think the McCartneys will see this Kitch fashion editorial story as a dig at the love/ hate/nurture/slaughter relationship we have with animals.....After all it was McCartney who wrote 'Mary had a Little Lamb' for Stella who had a pet lamb when a child, this allegedly provoked the whole family to stop eating lamb.
You may look at these images and interpret them in a different way - that is what commercial imagery with a feel of art is all about......

The Editorial is called' Mary had a Little Cow'

A Powerful image

To see more on this fashion story and the team involved please view my previous post this month.

Photography Erik LeStrange for PLASTIK mag out now globally.

FT's Dinner Party Debate, Apple & Beckham Versus RBS

2012-01-29T06:33:00.000-08:00

This cartoon from the 'Independent' caught my eye this morning as I scanned the Sunday Newspapers.

Last night in the guise of a Chinese double agent ( I found a stylish Chinese jacket in red woven silk in a charity shop to wear) I was onboard the Trans Siberian Railway seated in a lavish dinning car in the company of a Doctor, an Anesthetist, an Accountant, an HR Executive, two high profile Property Consultants and a Lloyds Insurance Broker ! We each played our roles admirably. I suspected it was the British agent who dun it - it is the quiet ones you have to watch we all agreed. We exited the dining car of the Trans Siberian Express train and found ourselves back in the present. Coffee, mint and Camomile teas, with a choice of liqueurs followed. The Ex Cambridge graduate Property Consultant then asked

'Do you think that Stephen Hester should get his bonus for sorting out RBS?'

The conclusion of much heated debate was that

Remembering that RBS is 82% owned by the British tax payer it was felt that in a true meritocracy no one should be rewarded until they have done the job they have been hired for.
Do doctors and nurses get bonus's? The argument that no one else would do this 'Mr Fixit' job does not carry water - the accolade of pulling a high profile bank out of a self inflicted mess should be enough for him. After all he is being PAID an extremely high salary before bonus. Are there no financial whizz kids with the brains and integrity to sort out the mess as a public service for 1.2 million !!

It was agreed Stephen Hester should have the same privations the fallout of the banking mess has caused for everyone else - we felt his position is a symbolic one - and that he should lead by example. He was hired by the Labour parties' Alastair Darling with Mr Brown before Cameron was in power with Nick Clegg, Labour approved the ludicrously generous contract with Hester. Pressure needs to bear if he and others in the banking community don't do the right thing. We also felt that human nature being what it is that if you already have millions yourself ( invested safely! ) why should you mind if things go wrong, you are set up for a minimum risk, quick, no strings attached exit particularly when rewarded for failure as was the case with Fred Goodwin! We concluded that high bonus culture in the financial world is fundamentally flawed and remembered it was encouraged by the Labour party when in power and given the opportunity to mutate and thrive when Maggie deregulated the banks in the 80s.

The discussion then went onto whether footballers should be paid such high amounts. Brand Beckham was admired and seen as a positive thing. Victoria Beckham's foray into fashion accepted as stylish and classy. The Insurance Broker then cited the success of Johny Ives ( a Brit) who is currently Senior Vice President of Design at Apple as someone else who is paid huge amounts of money in cash and stock. Most of us conceded that this fact was not that abhorrent to us as he was part of the running of a successful business with the tangible results of job creation. He is credited with creating the coveted Apple image with Steve Jobs. John Paul Getty, and Bill Gates then were thrown into the conversation as examples of responsible wealth custodians with generous altruistic gesture tendencies that have insured their place in wealth donor history. Success is a privilege and Giving something back to your Country or Community ensures

acceptance.

Let's make debate and challenging the status quo fashionable!

what do you think?

Future social media Trends that will affect fashion's ethical radar.

2012-01-26T04:09:00.000-08:00

Capitalism doesn't have to be this way! frankly any one of our Politicians could be wearing the 'Hat' in this cartoon from the Independent

David Jones author of 'Who Cares Wins' writes that he feels that the status quo can be changed or at least improved if those with business power choose to invest more time, energy influence and money by being 'a major force for good in helping to solve some of the most pressing problems of our time.'
He feels that social media such as twitter and facebook is forcing businesses, politicians and leaders to be more socially responsible. It will reward those who are. And remove those who aren't he thinks. He puts forward some convincing examples to back up his views.

What do you think ?

Cameron Diaz has got the 'want to be' style factor

2012-01-25T08:40:00.000-08:00

I love this look on Cameron Diaz, worn this week at the Dior show in Paris

Cameron at Valentino show in Paris yesterday, I love her short bob, and the cream/white dress perfect for her.

Cameron Diaz is an underestimated style icon or so I thought until recently. She has been spotted at the Versace and Dior show collections this week. Like many of her fellow Hollywood actors she realises that there are lucrative advertising projects in the world of fashion and to be seen is important. The sale of cream 'anything' fashion wise went up after she wore it (alot) in The Holiday ( a Classic Xmas film) I remember buying a cream wool coat from Next after seeing her looking so fab in the colour. It has a wonderful less is more purity worn in the Winter. She wanted fun and she certainly fulfilled many a single woman's secret wish with her antics. The holiday is one of my favourite films and I know I am not alone amongst many of my friends - I love the clip of her dancing to 'The Killers' - let's face it girls haven't we all done this? well if not give it a go, it will make you feel better.

PLASTIK - The story behind the Cover Concept and fashion Editorial -

2012-01-24T06:47:00.000-08:00

PLASTIK is an award winning Middle Eastern Magazine with an amazing visual dynamism.

Take a look at the story and planning behind the recent editorial fashion shoot and cover for PLASTIKS most recent publication. Find PLASTIK on facebook, twitter and youtube.

Twiggy in iconic musical 'The Boyfriend' written by Sandy Wilson, directed by Ken Russell

2012-01-23T05:59:00.000-08:00

'The Boy Friend' was written by my Great Uncle Sandy Wilson ( my Gran's little brother) after he had finished at Oxford University. It was a musical pastiche of the 1930s Busby Berkley musical and became an unexpected hit in London and then went onto the Royale Theatre on Broadway New York in Sept 1954. It was a hit and Julie Andrews played the role of Polly. It was her first big show. She became a huge star following this going onto do The Sound of Music and Mary Poppins. I remember as a little girl going to see the Ken Russell film version in 1971 in London with my family, it was all very exciting though Sandy did not like the musical arrangement of his classic songs and has moaned about it ever since! Twiggy won two Golden Globes for her performance. She has a wonderful voice and the world found out that she could act and tap dance! The film sets by Tony Walton were and still are fabulous bold art deco extravagances. Room in Bloomsbury is my favourite set, her cream silk dress is amazing. It is good to recently hear Twiggy talking about the fact that it is thanks to The Boy Friend that she got her next big career break into film and singing. It enabled her to showcase her undoubted talent - good luck with your new CD called 'Romantically Yours' Twigs.....
Here she sings 'I could be Happy' my favourite song from the show.

Copy - Schelay McCarter

Marc Jacobs @ LV & Lula Magazine - Mi Piacciono !

2012-01-18T10:57:00.000-08:00

The S/S 2012 Louis Vuitton collection though inspired by Mia Farrow in the 1960's horror movie Rosmary's Baby reminds me of a grown up sophisticated well healed 'Lula' Girl

Below please see an editorial fashion S/S 12 shoot idea developed by Sara Gomes for Lula Magazine (picture researcher for Portuguese Vogue) with me on my Art Direction for Fashion course

Lula is a UK Publication

Versace and Lanvin for H&M - Fashion Film Genius

2012-01-18T09:06:00.000-08:00

Lanvin for H&M, a brilliant Fashion Film to promote the new collection. It is fun quirky and totally fascinating to watch. More than all this the clothes look really great, so wearable and democratic.

to see the full look book click here, fabulous collection
http://www.fashionologie.com/Full-Lanvin-HM-Lookbook-Complete-Prices-Full-Ad-Campaign-11776479

Versace for H&M. This is technically impressive though it did not make me want to buy into the brand, however plenty of others did, it sold out rapidly.

Starting on the 19th April I will be running a new course called 'Create Your own Fashion Film.'

Film combined with still photography is growing in importance as a marketing aid to reinforce a brands image and DNA particularly on the luxury high end fashion brand websites. Done well it has the effect of sucking you into the brands world. Top fashion photographers such as Mert and Marcus are increasingly offering both skills to fashion clients. We will explore why on the course. To find out more click on the link below.

/http://www.csm.arts.ac.uk/shortcourses/fashionandtextiles/eveningandweekend/fashionmarketing/createyourownfashionfilm/

The Chinese are sustaining the European Luxury market

2012-01-12T03:06:00.000-08:00

I spotted these Chinese shoppers in Berlin last October

The Chinese and other 'new rich' nations are snapping up not just the luxury goods of the West but it would seem also the companies that make them.
The Shandong heavy industry group Welchai Group announced yesterday that it was buying 75% interest in the Makers of Luxury Yachts the Ferretti Group.
The other hunch economics journalists are mooting with increasing confidence is that the Luxury business will shift to Asia, where there is none of the European guilt at displays of wealth.
The other fact is that Europe can still produce top end products better than anyone else, in some cases even better than the US Hamish McRae of the Independent thinks.
I hadn't realised that thanks to an export surge to Asia, Rolls Royce sales hit an all time high last year.
This strengthens my hunch that we should be investing more in 'Brand UK' by rejuvenating the 'made in England' cache in high end fashion thus helping to kick start our own economic prospects long term!

Schelay McCarter 2012

Original 1970s glam in the form of Jerry Hall

2012-01-11T11:04:00.000-08:00

Jerry Hall at the height of her allure

Check out this wonderful promo film of Brian Ferry singing ' Let's stick together' with the company of perhaps 'the' most glamorous woman of the 1970s. International fashion icon Jerry is all woman, and had extraordinary charisma as can be seen from this video. The song and style epitomises the latter half of this edgy and exciting decade for sizzling Anglo American liaisons. With 'a little help from our friends' in both fashion and music the British were continuing to be in the forefront of this media.

Aquascutum flies the quality flag by using British tailoring skills

2012-01-08T08:33:00.000-08:00

One of Aquascutum's more successful advertising campaigns

Well done Harold Tillman for keeping some of Aquascutum produced in the UK. Harold Tillman also owns another British heritage fashion brand Jaeger. There is no information about where Jaeger merchandise is produced. I suspect in China.

http://www.aquascutum.co.uk/Made_In_England

'Aquascutum makes some of its outerwear in England at their Corby, Northamptonshire factory underscoring the company’s support of the British textile industry and ensuring impeccable standards are maintained'.

bravo!

I wonder where quintessentially British brand Hackett is made. Jeremy Hackett has proclaimed he owns a set of mugs that say 'Made in England' but does this declaration of intent extend to his highly successful clothing company? I went to check and I see the label says Hackett London and then in minute writing I see Made in China! disappointing.

Pringle is another British heritage brand not made in the UK . Perhaps our government needs to give our fashion entrepreneurs some of the same incentives that the Chinese government gives to their manufacturing industry. We can't compete with the low end side of manufacturing but the high end has huge potential. If Aquascutum and Barbour can do it why can't others?

http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8018655/Made-in-Britain-flying-the-flag-for-UK-manufacturing.html

Check out the following brands including Barbour that successfully keep production in the UK...

Barbour

A fourth-generation family-owned British brand, Barbour continues to manufacture its core waxed-cotton garments in a factory in South Shields, Tyne and Wear, although other products are made elsewhere. Following the same trajectory as Hunter boots, Barbour favourites such as Beaufort, Bedale and Border are no longer just the preserve of the county set. Having hopped on to the must-have list of festival-heading hipsters, the brand is basking in its cool status with more products aimed at a fashion-savvy clientele. The International, based on a motorcycle-jacket design from the archives, has ignited a following among city-dwelling, style-conscious men. As with Ewan McGregor and the model David Gandy, who both wear the International, the preferred colour is black. Bedale navy wax barbour, £179, Barbour (barbourbymail.co.uk ).

John Smedley

Based in Matlock, Derbyshire, the fine-gauge knitwear specialist John Smedley has operated as a family-owned business for more than 225 years. Best known for its Sea Island cotton and New Zealand merino wool, the company boasts that 99.6 per cent of the 430,000 items that it produces each year are made in Britain. 'We are the oldest continuous manufacturer of clothing in the UK,' says the creative director, Dawne Stubbs, adding that because of this, John Smedley has over time nurtured a skilled workforce. But bringing manufacturing back to Britain will not be easy, she warns: sourcing buttons and threads locally often constitutes a challenge, and rebuilding a skilled workforce is even harder. Grey merino wool crewneck and red merino wool roundneck, £122 each, John Smedley ( johnsmedley.com ).

Sunspel

A lesser-known heritage name, Sunspel made its name in men's underwear (it introduced boxer shorts to Britain in 1947) and opened its first store in Shoreditch in May. 'There has always been a strong element of innovation at Sunspel,' says Nicholas Brooke, who together with Dominic Hazlehurst has breathed new life into the brand since buying it in 2005. Although he has made changes, his commitment to Sunspel's factory in Long Eaton, Derbyshire, where it has operated since 1937, is unwavering. 'Men do appear to react more positively to the heritage that comes with making in the UK.' White T-shirt, £36, and blue and white stripe T-shirt, £38, both Sunspel (020-7739 9729; sunspel.com ).

by Schelay McCarter

Ethics focus on British luxury fashion Brands - Mulberry & Burberry

2012-01-05T16:04:00.000-08:00

I really like everything about Christopher Bailey's design leadership at Burberry and Mulberry's brilliant rise in fashion status however British high end luxury brands such as Burberry can afford to bring back 'some' or maybe all of their manufacturing into the UK.
'Made in the UK' carries huge cache for Far Eastern, South American and Asian customers. There is a Burberry trench coat factory in Castleford West Yorkshire apparently that has recently doubled is it's productivity due to demand but this is a drop in the ocean on overall Burberry garment output volume wise. The UK needs to rebuild it's manufacturing base again if it is to pull itself out of the down turn long term.
Quality is not always guaranteed by shifting to Chinese factories. Burberry has taken a quality hit because of this in my opinion. A huge mistake was made closing down the Welsh factory. Mulberry has a factory in Bath but there has been some controversy over the fact that Turkey ( the home of the counterfeit brand in the 1990s ) has been used for some of the collection in the past. Mulberry is way ahead of many other British brands by having some of it's manufacturing here in the UK at least.

Agreed that these brands are having to compete with fashion giants such as the LVMH and PPR group however their Britishness is being diluted by their manufacturing choices.

Also customers paying top dollar expect quality and with that there should be good after care service. Good design should last more than one season.

The throw away mentality of pre recession times will become a thing of the past. Barbour still offers a repair service. Attitudes need to change to reflect the times we are now living in.
Our British heritage is the last of the family silver we have left to capitalise on frankly and we are in a perfect position now with the luxury goods market high margins to make the most of it. A Burberry trench coat costs £2,395.00, and this is perceived as a good price by far Eastern and South American visitors to our Island.

The British Luxury goods market is defying the down turn and is expected to grow by 57% in the next 5 years making it worth 9.4 billion by 2015.

Saving Skills
British heritage Luxury goods companies in particular Burberry are making huge profits - some of this money could be channelled into investing in skill development and apprenticeships encouraging manufacturing and production back in the UK for the long term. Mulberry and Burberry are in a unique position to be able to lead by example.

Check out the 'Out of Exile' brand where all the production is done in Kent. http://www.outofxile.co.uk/OOX_Autumn_2011/About_Out_of_Xile.html

Who is to blame historically : In part accountants who look at the bottom line and put pressure on businesses to go for higher short term profits.

Brand integrity is key for business success. Customers are no longer interested in the superficial - when they buy into a brand they are buying other elements that make up the DNA of their aspirations and that in todays world is seeing that the short termism of greed and profligacy is eradicated. People will increasingly seek to make statements with their purchase choices.

John Lewis has shown an astute understanding of this trend as evidenced by it's buoyant Christmas profits. It is a company where the employees are all partners and have a share in the profits when times are good. The CEO is paid well but nothing astronomically more than the shop floor sales person and no where near that of other retail sector CEOs. John Lewis has no problem attracting the very best candidates for top jobs.

The brilliant advertising campaign sums up the new mood - it struck a chord over Christmas.

Greed and self service is not derigueur - doing the right thing is. Those who do will win.

What do you think - ?

by Schelay McCarter

Lanvin Film staring 'dancing' Raquel Zimmermann and Karen Elson

2011-12-20T02:38:00.000-08:00

We are living in a time where dance is de rigueur whether it be a watching Strictly come Dancing winner Harry Judd the Drummer from rock band McFly Waltz, Rumba or Jive - or going to dance lessons yourself! demand here has sky rocketed apparently.

Ratings for 'Strictly' were an astonishing 14,000.000! surpassing the X Factor by miles....The whole family across generations has been sucked into the Strictly come Dancing bug....The BBC must be thrilled.....It was reported in the press that Kate Moss is a huge fan of Strictly and held a final nights party at her house to watch it on the telly. I suspect she would love to have a go....It would be a good move for her as she won't want to model for ever and a career deviation onto main stream TV would give her image an approachability it lacks at the moment. Watch this space....

Dancing makes one feel good as well as get fit - 'Zumba' created by dancer and choreographer Alberto "Beto" Perez in Colombia during the 1990s, is also a barometer of the dance craze trend we are experiencing here in the UK.

Fashion has picked up on this - Prada as usual was ahead of the game and released a fabulous Josephine Baker inspired dance brand film for S/S2010, I posted a review at the time - click here to see it again.http://schelay.blogspot.com/2011/06/prada-summer-windows-milan-josephine.htmlI

Interesting that we have seen Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Ralph lauren, Philosophy and Marchesa picking up on the 1920s flapper trend Prada launched last S/S2010

Carey Mulligan beat Scarlett Johansen to get the role of Daisy Buchanan in the remake of F Scott Fitzgerald's classic book The Great Gatsby about the decadent lifestyle of America's idle rich before the 1930s wall street crash and subsequent great depression.... can't wait to see it.....

I love this Lanvin film above - the models look great if not a little out of sequence - I would give them an 8 /10 if I were marking! and 10/10 for looking cool.

Jean Seberg, Mia, Carey Mulligan, Michelle Williams short hair a great look for 2012

2011-12-12T13:42:00.000-08:00

Michelle Williams looks fabulous with short hair

Carey Mulligan doing an Edie Sedgwick impersonation, short hair suits her so well.

chic with short hair Edie Sedgwick in her Velvet Under Ground Days

Mia Farrow led the way in the late 60s with her ground breaking androgynous, sexy short cut

Carey with her beat nik bob, cute

new cover shot out now of Carey, looks fab, her hair styled off her face looks demure and grown up!

Jean Seberg with a wonderful short cut, if you have good eyes go for it. There is a likeness with Carey n'est-ce pas?

It is all in the bone structure and a long neck helps

I would like to see more short hair on the catwalk and in fashion marketing The fact is that there are only a few really amazing models who can do short hair and carry it off. In the battle of the brands those who stand out get noticed, using a short haired model would do this perfectly. It would be especially cool to see this look at Marc Jacobs or Miu Miu.

Prada 'Trembled Blossom' film - iconic and timeless

2011-12-08T14:01:00.000-08:00

This is a very important fashion film - Iconic and timeless, it was one of the first presented by a major fashion brand in order to utilise the digital potential for advertising to a growing user savvy audience. Prada lead the way in 2009 maximising on the advertising revolution predicting that it is still ever growing in creative importance as consumers continue to increase their commitment to buying online. It still blows me away, one is transported into an extraordinary and seductive Prada world reflecting the creative direction of that particular collection.

Pringle Film by Ryan McGinley with Tilda Swinton

2011-12-08T13:47:00.000-08:00

A ground breaking fashion film staring the enigmatic talent of Pringle muse Tilda Swinton.....
Directed by Ryan McGinley.

Rosie Huntington Whiteley in a hat......

2011-12-05T06:44:00.000-08:00

Hats worn the right way look so cool. Here away from her usual Victoria Secrets look Rosie's intelligence shines through - in a similar way to the look of Jean Shrimpton in the 60s - shame she is not used more this way.

I want this dress! - Jean Shrimpton's hat sets off the image perfectly

Anita Pallenberg in wide brimmed hat looks great even with her hair tied back!
a great 70s look here.

Jean Shrimpton - face of the 60s that never dates....

2011-12-05T06:18:00.000-08:00

Jean Shrimpton was at the epicentre of cool London in the 1960s, I would love to know what she thinks about the new film made by BBC4 called 'We'll take Manhatten' coming out soon about the relationship she had with David Bailey. Karen Gillan plays Shrimpton and Aneurin Barnard plays Bailey. To find out more to do with this influential era watch Antonioni's film 'Blow - up' made in the 1960s about David Bailey. David Bailey has become to fashion photography what Paul McCartney is to pop music.

Scarlett Johansen for Moet Champagne- festive cheer is here!

2011-11-27T02:12:00.000-08:00

I really like this advertising campaign shot of Scarlett Johansen for Moet Champagne.

She is dressed simply in a gown that has presence and fills the space well. Framing her with Champagne flutes balanced precariously whilst she poses on the ladder in a provocative position gives the shot energy and an edginess that is attention arresting and reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe in the film Gentle Men Prefer Blonds or Grace Kelly in the film classic High Society. The difference being that we are not interested in seeing people dripping in diamonds in 2011 in a world recession, the reference is that she will indeed be adorned in them later - the glamour comes from the fact that she looks fabulous without them and her tousled hair and simple red lipstick is enough .....

Basso & Brooke interview exclusive for revista b- London Fashion Week SS 2012

2011-11-23T07:33:00.000-08:00

Back Stage Before the show

Basso & Brooke show invitation

The accessories table for the all important finishing touch....

Last minute preparations take place with good old fashioned needle and thread...

The other worldly hair and make up emerges

The sumptuous collection of vibrant prints on hangers ready to be launched on the runway.

Bruno Basso discussing the styling with the model dressers before the show...

The Show

Above is the article that is about to be published in Sao Paulo Brazil in revista B magazine.

Below is the edited english version. It was an amazing show and brilliant to meet and chat with Bruno Basso.

The Brazilian Anglo design duo Basso & Brooke have been part of the established London fashion label club since 2004 when they were given the prestigious Fashion Fringe award. Awareness of their ground breaking and pioneering use of digitally printed patterns were confirmed when Vogue championed them as ‘ones to watch’ in their annual ‘Vogue list’, and they won best new designer at the Elle Style Awards. Christopher Brookes completed his fashion studies at the famous Central St Martins. Bruno Basso has a marketing and advertising background and found his creative penchant for print was given life with Christopher Brooke’s simply crafted pattern cutting and tailoring skills. In 2009 Michelle Obama made headlines wearing one of the label’s pieces, making Basso & Brooke one of the very first UK designers to be worn by the First Lady. The duo think of their label as a lifestyle brand and have a highly successful interiors collection as well as seasonal fashion collections.

I met Bruno at London Fashion Week in September after their show. He is a small, good looking unassuming man. The most striking aspect being his large brown eyes framed by thick almost joining in the middle eye brows.

I asked him what was the inspiration for this seasons collection. An amazing journey by car was described from London to Beijing, driving for weeks in relentless Siberian twilight. I scribbled down lots of notes as he verbally painted for me images of the amazing sunsets on the Siberian plains, how his Brazilian roots form a foundation in his concepts, tropical colours, organic lush plant like shapes seem to always creep in to create the almost other worldly realism and constructivism of his Art. For me this recent collection 'is' the stuff of art installation, the body and flesh it is adorns the gallery.....

Christopher Brooke the gallery curator frames the art in perfect balanced simple silhouettes and drapery. The effect is elegant and sassy and recognizable as the Basso and Brooke brand. Bruno told me he designs for intelligent women. I take this to mean cultured, knowledgeable and aware that fashion of his and Christopher's creation is a timeless investment...

Their collections are stocked worldwide.

Interview with Bruno Basso back stage after the show....

1) Bruno Basso – You were born in Santos Brazil. Tell us about your time there.  

All my childhood remembrances are amazing, I was born and lived almost all my Brazil life by the seaside, looking at the sea everyday gave me a sense of amplitude, curiosity and somehow freedom. I studied Advertising and Journalism and started to work, very young, as a junior art-director. And at the age of 15 in an advertising agency, I loved it! I used to go work everyday very happy because I was doing what I had chosen to do and I knew I would be working in the creative field forever. Also most of my true long-life friends are still living there and always i can escape from work and go to visit them.   

2) What made you move to the UK?

  I came initially to study Synesthesia, but then met Chris after two weeks of arriving and engaged in a conversation of different creative interests instead.    

3) Brazil has become an increasingly important centre for fashion. Where can we find your label in Sao Paulo?  

We will be selling exclusively to a newly opening store soon, it will be a very private luxury boutique in Vila Nova Conceição /SP    

4) What do you miss about living in Brazil?  

After living in London for so many years I still have Brazil in mind almost everyday, and I'm not missing anything in a nostalgic sense, but i have joy in remembering how our people are naturally happy and blissful. Our regional food is so exotic and delicious, our folklore and popular culture is enchanting, our lifestyle is 'easy' in the sense that people don't plan things too much ahead it just happens ... and so many other things. Trying to translate all these feelings into words when you're immersed in a totally different culture but equally amazing as the British one, is difficult.   

5) Do you both come from artistic families?  

No. my parents come from trading/commerce & restaurants and Chris's are from a managerial and secretarial background. 

6) How do you keep your ideas fresh each season?

Constant conversation and reflection. Fashion is a unique example within the design industry where it must be constantly reconsidered every 6 months, and its success is often very dependant on the mood of that particular season. It is persistently challenging and it is this which drives us to always keep our eyes open to new developments in technology, art movements, design movements, social & political developments, economic situations - these all influence how you see the world and how we ultimately respond to them which informs the change and shift of how people are feeling and how they would like to dress - the zeitgeist; the mood of the time. It is not about over-intellectualizing the concept of dressing, but to create something which suits its time. Another great aspect to our partnership is that we are from different design disciplines - Bruno, Graphic Design; Chris, Fashion Design. We have our own points of reference which often crossover, but sometimes do not - and this again gives us a unique point of view within fashion design.

7) What have been your main influences for your latest S/S 2012 collection ?

For Bruno, the journey to freedom was a literal one – an expedition by car, from London to Beijing. Driving for weeks in the relentless Siberian twilight, amidst its bleak and brutal landscape, the formal foundations for this collection’s prints were laid: hard, angular lines, sharp contrasts, strong structures – the constructivist essence. And for relief from this daily monochrome reality, he found himself imagining ever-more impossible and colourful alien interjections - a ‘tropical constructivism’, if you will, where hard-edged foliage clashes with distorted seascapes, and man-made textures explode over fading sunlight. Going further still, a second idea emerged, one that questions the idea of what defines ‘a collection’ – rather than produce a politely related set of prints, why not have them evolve from garment to garment? So here we see each print carrying within it the seeds of the next one, on and on, a journey through clothes. In contrast, for Chris, the garment architect, the newfound freedom was an internal one, an excursion into drapery, an exploration de l’atelier. Furnished with the printed fabrics, he has in places transformed flat graphic prints into deft drapes, whilst in others accentuated the printed trompe l’oeil effects to create further spatial play. A range of complex construction techniques are deployed, and jacket and lapel lengths juxtapose extended with cropped, yet at all times the finished feel is one of effortless simplicity and elegance, creating a loosely structured, flowing silhouette.

8) What would you and Chris Brooke put your success down to.

Of course talent is essential, but pure determination, curiosity, pragmatism, constant hard work and ALWAYS outputting ideas are key. And we have pioneered the digital print process within the fashion industry.

9) What are your ambitions for your label?

As we are print-driven the possibilities are endless - whatever has a surface can be printed. We are extremely excited particularly to work on a hotel or restaurant commission, where the consumer can experience the whole Basso & Brooke digital experience - this would be a dream.

10)Would you consider working for a big French fashion giant such as LVMH if asked ?

Of course, we have worked with another major fashion conglomorate, Aeffe, for several years,

11)What is the best and worst part of starting up a fashion business in the UK.

There is fantastic support for new talent in the UK, and London is specifically looked upon in the fashion industry for new ideas. We won the very first Fashion Fringe prize in 2004, an initiative setup by respected Fashion Historian and journalist Colin MacDowell. This gave us the platform to start our label initially and gave us the International exposure to launch our label.

12)Where are your garments produced?

Depending on each piece, we work with the best manufacturers but mainly Italy, they are the still the best for tailoring.

13)Have you noticed the economic downturn affecting your industry?

It has affected everyone, of course, but from a negative comes a positive and consequently makes you become more resourceful, creative and to look for new possibilities. It is important to evolve and seek new markets & territories. Fashion is an industry constantly searching for the new, and is a challenge regardless of economic difficulties. We must endeavour as a fashion design label to evolve and to output new ideas at twice a year whilst always considering your brand aesthetic. The challenge is always to offer your customer the product they require, but still offering something new, desirable, trendy, and press-worthy - one depends on the other.

14)Do you take on interns to help with your label?

We do, but at the later stages of the collection in the run-up to the catwalk show.

15)Who or what has been your main influence in your successful career?

Bruno:Ettore Sottsass

Chris: My Mum

Words and Photography Schelay McCarter pls credit

Berlin Winter Street Fashion - Germany explored

2011-11-09T07:55:00.000-08:00

Seen on Unter den Linden in the centre of Berlin this couple look very chic and coordinated styled purposefully or by accident in their matching whiter shades of pale

Seen on Friedrichstrasse a baroque pattern of matt and gloss textured fabric on this Desiguel coat .

Love it or hate it this epitomises the look seen almost everywhere at the moment - the puffer/duvet coat, a huge amount on the high street for sale. Top end brands such as Hugo Boss also have a commitment to this popular look.

A woollen poncho - like the way she has styled herself here.

Jeans almost everywhere in Berlin, note this security strap over her shoulder - a stylish addition, means you can rest your arm without worrying the bag with valuables will fall off your shoulder

This young mother looks very cool in her fingerless gloves and simple canvas bag, I like the above knee length camel brown coat and the grey scalf works really well here, note the cool wedge trainers.

Jeans with white coat - this has real fur cuffs and collar - shame I wasn't quick enough to get her from the front

Near Potsdamer Platz, a cool trend led hat, again jeans in boots - a short red jacket and purple bag....stood out in the sea of black and neutrals around -

Cool young Koople! - matching well

Seen on Unter den Linden a well heeled German couple, real fur fringed hood here on her cosy woollen jacket and uber shiny leather boots and matching bag, very chic!

A chic cyclist dashing across Bebel Platz near the Opera house in Berlin, her Longchamp bag is squashed into her front basket - I liked her wedge heeled brown boots and burnt orange wool coat.

Berlin was flattened by the allies in the 2nd world war - the old buildings are mostly pastiche and rebuilt, this image sums up Berlin today - looking to the future with humility.

Here is the bleak and very moving Jewish Memorial, the flats behind it were the accommodation of prominent Eastern Berlin politicians when the wall was up, on the left with the green roof is Hotel Adlon the most expensive hotel in Berlin ( restored recently) it is near the Brandenburg Gate. It was on one of it's balconies that Michael Jackson held his child much to the horror of the world press. The hotel has bullet proof glass and bomb proof walls.

After huge pressure on the Political regime in East Germany the dividing wall came down between West and East Berlin in 1989. Like a 'tamed' Phoenix rising from the ashes Berlin has been on a massive rebuilding programme ever since. This has been done in a considered and prudent manner, rebuilding the best from the past, certifying permanent foundations of remembrance and circumspection for crimes committed by their fathers and projecting a humble optimism in their future with new amazing and original municipal and commercial buildings, Potsdamer Platz and the Hauptbahnhof station stand out as two of the best we saw.
The old East Berlin contained all the historical and heraldic building, all with out exception were neglected until the wall came down. It is a different story today as slowly they have been rebuilt. Just off Unter den Linden the Opera house is being restored at the moment.
I got a real sense that the creative heart of the city is beginning to beat again. I found out Hugo Boss has the ignominiuos history of having been the official designer of the 3rd Reich uniform and still thrives today - as does Chanel in Paris who also has a regrettable history of collaboration with the then occupying German army. John Galliano's unguarded comments in a Paris bar broke too many taboos recently to be forgiven easily, visit Berlin and you will see why. The large memorial to all those who lost their lives is in the centre of Berlin where the new generation authority has made sure it is not hidden away, on one of the busiest most prominent roads a short walk from the Brandenburg Gate and opposite the Grober Tiergarten park it is a moving site.
Berliners are used to the cold with the temperature going down to - 26 in Winter sometimes. I suspect that is when many wear real fur lined coats and hats emerge from moth balls and covers in wardrobes! It is after all no accident that eskimos wear real fur as it will keep one warmest.....so perhaps they could be forgiven.
Bicycles are used by everyone in Berlin, with a population of only 3 million there is room to cycle in relative safety.
I found Berlin a friendly city with a tangible ambition to thrive and make up for the past.

Copy and Photos schelay - pls credit.

Belle Epoque Party Halloween Special - The Grand Hall, Euston, London

2011-11-01T06:44:00.000-07:00

Glamourous sisters Grace and Katherine Armitage who went along to Belle Epoque Halloween Special by Bourne and Hollingsworth for fashiontent on Saturday night.

In the recent film Midnight In Paris Owen Wilson, and a charming French lady he found in the 1920s, are transported back to the 1890s in Paris: La Belle Époque. Across the petticoat filled dance floor of the Moulin Rouge sits Toulouse-Lautrec, a glass of absinthe perched inches from his hand. The consumption, the syphilis, the poverty and addiction are all off stage. This is the fantasist’s Belle Epoque, a seductive yet safe version of a period of history that was as infamous for its art, fashion, philosophy and decadence as its squalor, illness and suffering. It is this idealist’s re-imagining which welcomes the dark young things that slip from the bus-busy streets of Euston into the shadowy underworld of the green fairy.

The exterior of the Grand Hall does not promise great things. The queue looks like that of any other nightclub, the costumes of the partygoers hardly out of place among the creativity Hallowe’en inevitably excites. Once inside, a discrete black mask stamped onto your wrist, the atmosphere is quite different. The organisers have hit upon a trick by opening the event to just the right capacity. The hall is suitably crowded, intense and a little bit mad, but there is still room to dance properly and space enough to walk around meeting people and taking everything in. Exquisite (though pricey) cocktails are served by skilled and friendly bar staff. The drinks are gifted with sumptuous names such as Le Vie Rose and Crushed Midnight and served in the – fast becoming fashionable once again – saucer glasses of the time.

Brilliant bar staff worked hard creating delicious drinks...

The focus of the room is two separate stages. One in the middle hosts an endless carousel of aerial and acrobatic talent whilst the proscenium arch opens its curtains to reveal burlesque dancers and a somewhat less burlesque band. The combination of these two performance spaces gave a fantastic feeling of giddiness to the evening, one moment you would be slack-jawed in awe at the swoops of an acrobat, the next drawn inexorably to the stage to swing to the band. A personal highlight was the aerial artist who leapt up to a trapeze on elasticised bands (a set up that rather resembled a giant catapult), turning in the air before swooping down, swallow like, seemingly to brush the floor and dare death.

I was also impressed by the Burlesque dancer who brought a heavy dose of

co-ordination and style to the art of removing clothes. Though she did have the unfortunate effect of sending most of the audience into a reverent trance. She also managed an excellent piece of multi-role-play. Appearing from a shell as a mermaid, disappearing as a slightly less shell heavy mermaid, and then re-appearing as a time traveller straight from the red mill itself. The band were heavily focused on letting people dance, something I was all for, and consequently indulged the theme less in favour of creating a bit of swing. A wonderful finale of a four-woman can-can was a riotous and superbly executed end to the entertainment. What was most impressive was the easy way these performances were dealt with by performers and audience alike. People were drawn in but under no pressure to quiet down and pay attention, the terrible British trait of stolidly watching and then guiltily whispering was utterly overthrown.

And then there were the outfits. Words are feeble in comparison to the visual effect which I hope is conveyed somewhat by the pictures. The imagination of the guests was wonderful. As we meandered our way through the throng we encountered Edward Scissorhands, perched on the stage and quite at home in the nineteenth century, courtesans decked with feathers and ribbons, gentlemen made from blokes by top hats and well turned bow ties. The outside world of Hallowe’en snuck in through a few gaps in time (nothing to worry about I’m assured) so that some necks were reddened with blood rather than ribbon. I was pleased, however, with the general resistance to Clinton Card’s finest and the total surrender instead to decadence. I took it upon myself to upbraid a jean wearing member of the party who was suitably abashed, less by my reprimand and more by the celebration of history and fashion that surrounded him.

Edward Scissors hands working the bar!

Voila!

Of course the true Montmatre, which inspired so much and ruined so many, is very far from Saturday night Euston, however grandly disguised. The absinthe in this Belle Epoque is served from a spritzer that grants a spray to each drink and the cloakroom is filled, not with fur, but sensible coats and spare flat shoes. Yes the corsets are from Camden and the music blares from speakers and the hedonism doesn’t even nearly approach that epitomised by the freedom, beauty, truth and love-seeking addicts of the time. Yes we probably only know about La Belle Epoche because of Moulin Rouge (and now Woody Allen) but what this night was utterly true to was the spirit of enjoyment of the self and celebration of the senses that is the best part of that mad Parisian whirl.

Words by Katharine Armitage

Photography by Grace Armitage
please credit.

Spring Summer 2012 - what to save and what to wear next year...

2011-10-31T11:53:00.000-07:00

1950s Floral Kitch meets 1980s exaggeration

The first trend I see is....
1950s floral dresses/pleated skirts with fitted tops or flirty longer length pencil skirts as seen on the A/W catwalk big, check out Prada, Erdem, Dolce and Gabbana and Diane Von Furstenberg.
Vintage shops in Brick lane will give you a great choice of this style or buy a big skirt from a charity shop( lots springing up in British High Streets ) and if you have sewing skills rejig it to your size. Look out for quirky conversational patterns. The pencil skirt is a main wardrobe item, so versatile and sexy, wear with big jackets as seen in the Prada show with flats or heels. The prom style dress as seen lots in Mad Men and now new retro American series Pan Am is more for evening wear, white satins and shimmery textures.
For casual wear I want to see big baggy jumpers/tops worn with bright or striped capri cropped trousers....

more musings to follow later as there are many more S/S12 trend pointers to report.

Pleated skirt and large 50s style jacket, keep your pleated skirt it will get lots of use in the summer

Elegant midi length pencil skirt continues from Autumn Winter trend, love these kitch Prada skirts, these will be copied by the high street in some form.

copy Schelay pls credit.

Arizona Muse, Edie Campbell and Rosie Huntington Whiteley - Yves Saint Laurent fashion film classic

2011-10-27T10:51:00.000-07:00

Arizona Muse - the all American girl with the classy girl next door looks and Audrey Hepburnesque eye brows is in the top tier of international model stardom now. She has the same quality seen in the 1980s super model looks of Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington.

The fashion film for Yves Saint Laurent shot by Innez Lamsweerde and Vindoodh Matadin below is a must see.....though i think it is a wee bit too long....

Interesting that high street brand NEXT is using Arizona for their main photo campaign at the moment. Sales are up for Next bucking the trend for some disappointing figures this year end. The high street trend for using models associated with the high end tier of fashion is growing seen also with Marks and Spencer spending a fortune using Rosie Huntington Whiteley for their recent campaign with Sandra Bullock's heart throb fiancé Ryan Reynolds. Unfortunately this has not had the effect of boosting M&S sales! The warm spell we had in the UK a few weeks ago though spoilt many sales targets for many retailers who had Autumn / Winter stock ready to sell. Edie Campbell is in the new Burberry Xmas brand shots in December Vogue. Is she high profile enough yet to take on a high street brand. Not yet would be my advice, she needs to get some bigger international brands and get American Vogue under her belt first.

Raymond Meier - Best of British Vogue editorial shoots for 2011

2011-10-27T03:03:00.000-07:00

That 70s hat seen everywhere at London Fashion week in Sept

Stylist Kristine Kilty wearing 'the hat' waiting in line for a show at LFW
photo Schelay pls credit

Fur a must have for the cold winter ahead on accessories too...

Spots a big trend for Autumn Winter 2011 esp at David Korma and Stella McCartney

LFW - Style -
Photography Schelay- pls credit

Head to toe anything is a no no normally but this fake Python coat by Chloe hailed as the new Leopard with the matching boots looks great, don't do this with the Burberry check though!

LFW, in the pink!
photo Schelay pls credit

Dolce and Gabbana sparkly sequin shoes look great with pink here....

Note the comfortable shoes in the cycle/moped hat over the models arm and the rain cape a 'must have' waiting in line for shows!

This shoot by Raymond Meier for British June Vogue stood out at the time for me as a great way of show casing all the best of the trends for Autumn Winter 2011 in a riot of clever styling using the fashionista blogger's style seen now at the Shows now each season. It is all in the detail if you look carefully - Mixing and matching colours and textures, fringing, embellishment and layering works really well, and for me epitomises what fashion is all about at the moment - that is 'anything goes' as long as it works aesthetically and pleases the eye. It is a street art form. This shoot makes this look aspirational and cool. This concept would have also kept all the high end brands such a Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Tom Ford , Stella McCartney, Chanel that spend a fortune on their brand advertising in Vogue happy as it shows off their money spinning accessories superbly.

Photography Vogue - pls credit

Arizona Muse - British Vogue editorial shoot 2011

2011-10-26T08:01:00.000-07:00

I love this simple fashion shoot in New York for Vogue by Lachlan Bailey. It is a classic editorial showing the merits of the new below the knee length skirt. The styling is fab and sells this demure lady like length in a modern and aspirational way, cool in the city! - the images have an energy about them that makes this look easy to wear. Think how you could make a short 60 second film out of this idea to sell it further on the vogue web site.

Jean Shrimpton in New York shot by David Bailey in the 1960s

This photoshoot seen in June British Vogue this year is reminiscent of the sort of style David Bailey and Jean Shrimpton made their own in the 1960s, in particular the red jumper shot where Arizona Muse is holding a can of coke - an iconic American object. Actress Karen Gillan will be playing Jean Shrimpton in a BBC 4 biopic about Bailey and Shrimpton's time in Manhatton doing the above shoot and their love affair. The film will be out next year.

Images Vogue - pls credit

Prada Glitter shoes - add sparkle Winter or Summer - trend

2011-10-16T12:40:00.000-07:00

Seen at a show - love this look - great worn with jeans...

Prada shoes - note the diamond detail on the heel, and the blister plaster.!

These are great worn with a skirt or jeans

Glitter boots seen at Kye's show at Fashion Scout's ones to Watch - Men for S/S 2012

Xmas party shoes Asos £40.00 strictly for evening!

Glitter boots Top Shop £80.00 day and night

Miu Miu glitter pumps £354.00 Saks 5th Ave

Klaxon glitter pumps Top Shop £ 58.00 for every day

Adding sparkle to your style transcends seasons in my opinion worn with jeans and a big baggy jumper in Winter or a white dress in summer. Not easy to find any in gold now alas...

Copy and photos from shows Schelay - pls credit

The Genius of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen SS 2012

2011-10-10T14:59:00.000-07:00

This is one of the most breathtaking collections I have ever seen.....
In this business one can get a wee bit blaze about the whole Fashion Season Circus....looking at London, New York, Milan and Paris offerings from a multitude of incredibly talented designers is inspiring and appreciated. There were some amazing collections each with a unique hand writing to suit the myriad of tastes followers of fashion crave but none displayed the mastery of fabric manipulation expert seamstress and down right artistic sensibility and extraordinary imagination challenging our perception of decoration and embellishment than this Sarah Burton collection for S/S 2012. I must keep going on about Art and Fashion, this collection is similar in extraordinary detail and craftmanship to those gowns made for Marie Antoinette or Georgiana Duchess of Devonshire. A homage to the hidden and macabre marine world and the beauty of le fruit du mer, there is a modernity about the texture contrast and clever manipulation of silks, taffettas and lace also modern stencil techniques the bespoke work involved as art form reinforces ...The collection is sexy and flattering to the female form and more covetous for this fact. This may sound crass but I was reminded of the Mermaids in the recent Pirates of the Caribbean film - barnicles seen on the head adornments in this collection have also played a fascinating and macabre role in many scenes of this film series!
I turned down the opportunity of going to the Palace to look at Kate Middleton's wedding dress by Sarah Burton, however would be first in line to see this amazing selection up close to appreciate the level of detail and 'love' that has gone into each piece....

Bravo !

Copy Schelay McCarter - please credit
Photography Vogue.com - please credit.

Basso & Brooke - LFW SS 2012 - A sassy collection

2011-10-02T04:09:00.000-07:00

Distinctive Basso & Brooke style

This is a fabulous design

The ever popular Jumpsuit makes a repeat appearance

I like the lemon yellow and textured scale pattern on the bottom half of this silk dress

organic colours and shapes

Tropical influences

The drapery very effective here.

The rack of art await the models while their hair and make up is being done...

Bruno talking to one of the model dressers before the show

The accessories laid out ready for the show

last minute preparations before the show

Make - up by MAC, hair Kenna for GHD

I could spend ages telling you all about the amazing journey by car from London to Beijing, driving for weeks in relentless Siberian twilight the print designer side of talented duo Basso & Brooke, Bruno Basso described to me. He made the journey earlier this year in order to develop his design ideas for this now launched Spring Summer 2012 collection....I scribbled down lots of notes as he verbally painted for me images of the amazing sunsets on the Siberian plains, how his Brazilian roots form a foundation in his concepts, tropical colours, organic lush plant like shapes seem to always creep in to create the almost other worldly realism and constructivism of his Art. For me this recent collection 'is' the stuff of art installation, the body and flesh it is adorns the gallery.....
Christopher Brooke the gallery curator frames the art in perfect balanced simple silhouettes and drapery. The effect is elegant and sassy and recognisable as the Basso and Brooke brand.
Bruno told me he designs for intelligent women. I take this to mean cultured, knowledgeable and aware that fashion of his and Christopher's creation is a timeless investment...
www.bassoandbrooke.com/

Words and photography Schelay McCarter - please credit

For the Portuguese version of this please look at http://www.revistab.com.br/ A longer version of this interview with Bruno Basso of Basso & Brooke will also appear in B magazine's next edition due out in San Paolo this month.

Edie Campbell in Anya Hindmarch shoot - all in the detail...

2011-09-29T15:16:00.000-07:00

http://www.anyahindmarch.com/VIP/TheShoot

I like Mulberry but not as much as I admire Anya Hindmarch hand bags......

Edie Campbell looks great in this film, and the brand shoot is perfect for the DNA of the AH woman. The Anya Hindmarch shop is in Pont Street London and well worth a look. A friend of mine was given one of the bespoke handbags as a thank you from one of her grateful property clients. The service allows a personal message to be placed in gold leaf inside the bag as well as the owners name. I was impressed ...... In the current tough retail competitive market,

having a quality service offer that is different to other competitors is a good business decision. In the high end luxury market customer service is key to raising sales and loyalty.This is clearly proving a successful formula for Anya Hindmarch whose profits haven seen a very healthy and steady increase and a resulting rise in market share internationally.

Copy Schelay McCarter

Jasper Conran LFW SS2011

2011-09-28T14:50:00.000-07:00

serene elegance

I absolutely loved the SS 2012 Jasper Conran Collection seen at London Fashion Week at Somerset House. The Jasper Conran woman is self assured, in control, calm and elegant. Conran's understated, less is more hand writing is perfect and reflects for me the mood of the moment. The bright fuscia pink and sparkling pure white colour palette presented in chiffon, linen, and crisp cottons on a selection of simple linear silhouettes without a hint of bling is so refreshing and cleansing of spirit....I may go and feng shui my wardrobe come next Summer!

Words Schelay please credit

photography Margarita Gozalvez - pls credit

Elisa Palomino - Day 5 LFW SS12 Vauxhall Fashion Scout

2011-09-22T09:20:00.000-07:00

Headpiece by Angel Amor

Nothing had prepared me for the splendour of Spanish born Elisa Palomino's show in the grand show room in Freemasons' Hall, Queen Street, Covent Garden where many emerging labels premier their new season's collections in London.

It felt like we had all been transported to the Hidden City in Beijing or a grand Italian Villa in Tuscany or Rome. This collection had something of the fairy tale about it. I absolutely loved it. It was as if Palomino had discovered an aristocratic dressing up box tucked away in some forgotten room ( she took her inspiration from the Madrid Garment Museum ) - her exquisite surface decoration and embellishment recreates the glory of the past wardrobe extravagancies of the aristocracies of Europe. This love of Oriental decoration

became fashionable across the old empires of Europe, influencing artists, architects and interior design. Our own King George IV was a huge fan and built the Royal Pavillion in 1830 in Brighton in homage to his own fascination with Far Eastern/ Asian culture and aesthetic.
Palomino's work is not couture, cleverly commercial with a small c, her clothes are infinitely wearable and would work well for various occasions, cocktail parties, smart evening events, Weddings, Balls. The buoyant Chinese and South American markets will love the cultured glamour her collection provides as will the other more tightened Western economies. Investment fashion buying is something that is still doing well.

If any designer was not more worthy of the Sponsorship of Vauxhall Talent Scout it is Palomino. It comes as no surprise to me that she is an ex MA St Martins fashion student. Nor does it come as any surprise having seen this show that she was head of studio at John Galliano for 8 years. More recently she was vice president of Diane Von Furstenberg.

Last year she show cased her first 'own collection' at New York Fashion Week where the entire lot was bought by Dolce and Gabbana for the Spiga 2 concept store in Milan,

( see my post about Via della Spiga)

It was a privilege to be at this show - Palomino is a name to remember. What is more exciting is the fact that she has chosen London in which to have her creative studio.

www.elisapalomino.com

Words and photography Schelay McCarter - please credit.

For the Brazilian (Portuguese) version please look at the website of the fashion and culture B magazine

http://www.revistab.com.br/

A LA DISPOSITION - Day 5 LFW SS12

2011-09-21T03:23:00.000-07:00

It was Tuesday morning, yesterday in fact that I rushed over to the grand Freemasons' Hall on Queen Street London for the first show of the day 'A La Disposition' Mechanical Failure at 10am organised by BLOW PR front of house and Vauxhall Fashion Scout. I love this venue, the deco interior is a most fitting environment to show case fashion talent in London. The show was 10mins late, this was fine as I sat in the front row next to Keskula an interesting fashion scout who connects people creatively in the Nordic states .

I was not sure what to expect from this talented design duo. Apparently the Spring Summer 2012 collection by A La Disposition forms 'an expression of defiance in an age of retraction'. The expertly crafted garments were constructivist in essence, the body form a vehicle to express nonconformist versions of classic shapes, for example the skirts and dresses were made up in the most deliciously sumptuous raw lime silks, these ballooned voluminously on one side and in contrast hugged the figure smoothly on the other, whilst other versions were symmetrical and fluted. The contrast between exercised control and the elegance of volume is central in the collections created by A La Disposition apparently.

My favourite piece was the wool jacket with the cris cross detailing on the back.
I can see Kiera Knightly looking perfect in the purple ballooning skirt and black blouse. The knee length pop socks worked and it was pleasing to see less vertiginous shoes too.
A La Disposition is relocating and will be settling permanently in London.

http://aladisposition.com/home.html#/

Words and photography - Schelay McCarter - please credit

Leutton Postle - Day 1 LFW - SS12

2011-09-20T09:30:00.000-07:00

Jenny Leutten one half of talented design duo Leutton Postle

Leutton Postle’s ( design team Jenny Leutton and Sam Postle )

The KNITWEAR was fantastical and wild ! An explosion of colours: intense textures, yet soft , meshed and merged.

Mosaic and patchwork of knitting fabric, cable ties, yarn ….

Look at the shoes and the mosaic’d faces

Jenny is inspired by 1930s painter and textile designer Sonia Delauney ( not to confuse with Robert )

Resonant palette and tones.

Words & Photos for fashiontent - please credit

This brilliant collection is being featured in world famous fashion savvy 'Browns' boutique's window in South Molten Street in London at the moment. Go and take a look and make an investment buy!
http://www.brownsfashion.com/home/whatsnew.aspx

Schelay - fashiontent Editor

Malene Oddershede Bach- Ones to Watch ( Girls) Day 1 SS12 LFW -

2011-09-20T09:06:00.000-07:00

Staged Friday 16^th September in the stunning Art Deco Freemason’s Hall

4 young innovative designers are shown at London Fashion Week sponsored by Vauxhall Fashion Scout, each radically different and unique:

The tall elfin Malene Oddershede Bach is a one girl team designing digital print and couture - witty surprising detail, playful with conventional tailoring such as sleeves slit, cut away panels, asymmetric cuts, juxtaposing acid lemon and turquoise cerise magenta prints on silk and cotton satin with leather ….

Words & Copy for fashiontent by Anne Tilby - please credit

Shao Yen - Ones to Watch ( Girls) Day 1 SS12 LFW

2011-09-20T08:55:00.000-07:00

Staged Friday 16^th September in the stunning Art Deco Freemason’s Hall

4 young innovative designers are shown at London Fashion Week sponsored by Vauxhall Fashion Scout, each radically different and unique:

Shao Yen - soft , fluffy ,textural and sculptural exposing body and body hugging : dreamy and lush with a melange of materials.

Words & photos for fashiontent by Anne Tilby - please credit

Alice Lee - Ones to Watch ( Girls ) Day 1 SS12 LFW

2011-09-20T08:43:00.000-07:00

Girls - ONES TO WATCH

Staged Friday 16^th September in the stunning Art Deco Freemason’s Hall

4 young innovative designers are shown at London Fashion Week sponsored by Vauxhall Fashion Scout, each radically different and unique:

Design couple, Alice Lee’s knitwear, laced with suede and leather, punctuated with encrusted coils – sleek and intricate.

Words & photos for fashiontent by Anne Tilby - please credit

Eleanor Amoroso - Day 3 LFW SS12

2011-09-20T07:09:00.000-07:00

It was a Sunday morning mass of a different kind at LSO St Luke’s, the stunning church venue for this season’s Blow Presents showcase on Old Street, on day three of London Fashion Week. This season’s showcase included collections from Jane Bowler, Fanny & Jessy, Liberum Arbitrum (designed by Shinsuke Mitsouka) and Eleanor Amoroso, all of whom have already garnered international press coverage, including prestige publications such as Vogue Italia, Another Man, VICE, and VOLT Magazine. Given the calibre of these young designers, it was a very eagerly anticipated show, and the atmosphere was electriv, something that was enhanced by the fantastic music by Joe and Will Ask at Red Bull Studios; it not only encapsulated the tone of each individual collection, but worked in perfect harmony with the gothic romance of the venue.

ELEANOR AMOROSO

Amoroso’s collection was wildly different to her predecessor’s. It was only Amoroso’s second season but already her unique hand-crafted pieces have already attracted a lot of attention and been worn by Alice Dellal on the cover of Volt Magazine. Perhaps better categorised as ‘art’ rather than clothing, each piece of knitwear was intricately detailed and featured fringing similar to Jane Bowler’s. Playing it safe with a colour palette of black and cream made for a very elegant and sophisticated collection that could have become all too much if other colours had been used. It was an interesting and innovative take on knitwear that is sure to acquire a cult following in the near future.

Words & Photos for fashiontent by Sophie Hollins - please credit
http://sogni-doro.tumblr.com/

Liberum Arbitrum - Day 3 LFW SS12

2011-09-20T07:02:00.000-07:00

It was a Sunday morning mass of a different kind at LSO St Luke’s, the stunning church venue for this season’s Blow Presents showcase on Old Street, on day three of London Fashion Week. This season’s showcase included collections from Jane Bowler, Fanny & Jessy, Liberum Arbitrum (designed by Shinsuke Mitsouka) and Eleanor Amoroso, all of whom have already garnered international press coverage, including prestige publications such as Vogue Italia, Another Man, VICE, and VOLT Magazine. Given the calibre of these young designers, it was a very eagerly anticipated show, and the atmosphere was electriv, something that was enhanced by the fantastic music by Joe and Will Ask at Red Bull Studios; it not only encapsulated the tone of each individual collection, but worked in perfect harmony with the gothic romance of the venue.

LIBERUM ARBITRUM

Possibly the least summery collection to be shown at LFW this season, but Shinsuke Mitsouka’s ‘Deep Forest’ collection didn’t disappoint. Mitsouka’s Parisian couture training played a strong part in creating a highly theatrical, dark, futuristic and gothic collection. The models were transformed into eerie shadows; clad in black, their unusual silhouettes were accentuated and embellished with silver zips, whilst black chiffon draping leant a ghostly edge to the collection. However, despite how stunning this collection was, I couldn’t help but feel that it was a little similar to Gareth Pugh’s AW11 collection.

Words & photos for fashiontent by Sophie Hollins - please credit
http://sogni-doro.tumblr.com/

Fanny & Jessy - Day 3 LFW SS12

2011-09-20T06:44:00.000-07:00

It was a Sunday morning mass of a different kind at LSO St Luke’s, the stunning church venue for this season’s Blow Presents showcase on Old Street, on day three of London Fashion Week. This season’s showcase included collections from Jane Bowler, Fanny & Jessy, Liberum Arbitrum (designed by Shinsuke Mitsouka) and Eleanor Amoroso, all of whom have already garnered international press coverage, including prestige publications such as Vogue Italia, Another Man, VICE, and VOLT Magazine. Given the calibre of these young designers, it was a very eagerly anticipated show, and the atmosphere was electriv, something that was enhanced by the fantastic music by Joe and Will Ask at Red Bull Studios; it not only encapsulated the tone of each individual collection, but worked in perfect harmony with the gothic romance of the venue.

FANNY & JESSY

In sharp contrast to Bowler’s chilled out, beach-ready collection, Fanny & Jessy showed a collection for summer in the city that earned them a huge cheer at the end. The collection opened with tailored pieces in red, grey and sand, before moving onto printed dresses, trousers and capes. The girls used mohair to create spider-web like cropped jumpers and ankle socks, which were worn with towering, red, statement wedges. A strong collection, particularly for pieces such as trousers and jackets, which will no doubt only serve to further the girls’ success.

Words & photos for fashiontent by Sophie Hollins - please credit
http://sogni-doro.tumblr.com/

Jane Bowler - Day 3 LFW SS12

2011-09-20T06:33:00.000-07:00

JANE BOWLER

Bowler is known for her innovative approach to knitwear and her SS12 collection showed just how talented she is; it is hard to believe such an accomplished collection was created by somebody who only graduated a year ago. Bowler’s playful collection was a riot of colour that evoked images of the Caribbean – mesmerising turquoise was complemented by bursts of bright orange, whilst vibrant feathers and fringing evoked tropical birds. Perhaps the greatest success of the collection was not Bowler’s ability to bring a smile to even the surliest fashionista’s face, but in her transformation of everyday materials, that the majority of us wouldn’t look twice at, into something beautiful.

Words & Photos for fashiontent by Sophie Hollins - please credit
http://sogni-doro.tumblr.com/

Holly Fulton Day 3 SS12 LFW -

2011-09-18T15:14:00.000-07:00

note the monochrome animal print bag mixed with the modern tiled pattern

wide legged high waisted trousers - very flattering and chic, note the fringed skirt

Loved this coral detail inspired dress...

Flirty fringing, reminiscent of Prada's SS11 Josephine Baker inspired collection

Pattern Proportion play with rich jewel embellishment

Black and white monochrome embellishment with flirty fringing add to the style

Body conscious shapes form a glamourous collection

Bold and confident, there is no mistaking this is Holly Fulton!

The trousers fabric print cleverly look like animal print (snake skin) but are a repeat of a geometric design.
The chess board detailing seen here is very distinctive and repeated on other collection pieces.

Pale beach wear with her trade mark deco design

Holly at the end of her show graciously accepting the approbation

I loved the Holly Fulton SS12 Collection seen today at Somerset house at 2pm. It had depth and breadth and something for everyone....
The bold and sexy styling detail combined with her signature print was wonderful.
Holly's 'work' is modern and always unique each season but stays true to her origins of decorative construction and delineation of the body form . Infinitely wearable and covetable. I am sure it will be her most successful yet.

Copy & photography Schelay McCarter - pls credit